Every Last Yard
I’m famous for not buying enough of a given yarn. Sometimes the shop only has a few skeins left. Other times, I’m hopelessly optimistic about how far the yardage will take me.
I designed Every Last Yard to make the most of whatever yarn you choose. A few design features help create more fabric from a smaller amount of yarn. I chose a superwash worsted yarn, knit deliberately a little loose to take advantage of superwash’s ability to grow a little when washed. The lace patterning is repetitive enough to look perfect no matter which row you cast off on.
Knit entirely without finishing details from the neck down, Every Last Yard is completely finished when you cast off that final stitch; no need to preserve yarn for working borders or edgings. Short sleeves or long, hip length or waist length; it’s all up to the yarn you’ve got to use.
Because you’ll be working a worsted weight yarn at an aran weight gauge, it’s extremely important to knit a reasonable sized gauge swatch, cast off, and wet block. This will make sure that you’re working on the right sized needles for the desired finished measurements of your sweater.
The garment begins by working the ribbed collar, doing some short row shaping to help turn for the neckline, and picking up stitches along one edge before working the raglan-shaped yoke. If you haven’t done short rows before, they’re fun and not hard, but take a fair amount of trust that “it’ll work out”. Just follow the directions and once finished, you’ll see how the short rows create the shape of the neckline.
This is not your usual pattern. Yardage and instructions are provided to use a set amount of yarn. However, when working the pattern, hints are included for changing the design based on having more – or less – yarn available to you to use. This makes Every Last Yard ideal for when you don’t quite have enough.
16 sts and 23 rows to 4 inches in loose stockinette, blocked
S[M, L, XL, 2X, 3X]
This cardigan is meant to be worn loose but not sloppy. The integrated waist shaping will help maintain a sleek fit, but choose a size 1-3 inches larger than your actual bust measurement for best results.
Chest: 35[39, 43, 47, 51, 53] inches
805[900, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1300] yards worsted-weight yarn
Shown in Madelintosh Tosh DK – color Kale
(100% Superwash Wool, 225 yards / 4oz)
US 7 / 4.5mm needles, 36”, OR SIZE TO OBTAIN PROPER GAUGE AFTER BLOCKING
1 set US 7 / 4.5mm double pointed needles
stitch holders or scrap yarn
Version 1.2 – The written instructions for the lace chart were incorrect for even rows (2 and 4). When working in rows, those stitches should be purled. In the round, they should be knit. The lace is worked in stockinette, not garter. The charts were correct.
Version 1.1 – Added description for the term ‘kfb’, included written-out directions for working the Fern Lace, and provided a correction to the short row sections for Row 7:
Row 7: sl 1, k1, (p1 k1, pick up wrap and p2tog with the wrapped stitch, k1) 3 times. p1 k1. All sts have now been worked. DO NOT TURN.
Previously, the final p1 k1 had been omitted.
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To see more projects and information about Every Last Yard, visit Ravelry.