I’ve always wanted to knit a cardigan like this. Cozy and warm, but elegant and modern, with just enough fair isle to make it pretty without being overly complex.
Although this project can be worked as a traditional seamless raglan cardigan, turning at the end of each row, the fair isle bits are easier to work entirely in the round, with no purl rows, and then cutting up the center front to create the cardigan after the knitting is complete. The technique of ‘steeking’ isn’t as hard or as scary as you may think.
True North is named for my adopted country, Canada, and features a shaped shawl collar, longer length, and an optional belt.
S[M, L, XL, 2X]
36[40, 44, 48, 52] inch chest
A note on fit:
Model is shown with approximately 4 inches of positive ease. This garment is meant to be worn loosely.
14 sts and 18 rows to 4 inches using US 10/6.0 mm needles in stockinette stitch
Chunky-weight yarn in three colours:
MC (shown in ecru): 700[800, 900, 1050, 1150] yards
CC1 (shown in green): 180[200, 220, 300, 350] yards
CC2 (shown in brown): 180[200, 220, 300, 350] yards
Size M shown in Cascade Eco Wool and Eco+
US 10 / 6.0mm 32” circular needle OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE
US 8 / 5.0mm 32” circular needle
US 8 / 5.0mm 40” or longer circular needle
Set of US 10 / 6.0mm double pointed needles
Set of US 8 / 5.0mm double pointed needles
Sewing machine, or hand-sewing skills, if steeking
This fair isle cardigan is worked in the round, then stabilized with machine stitching and cut. If you haven’t worked a ‘steek’ before, it’s a great technique, and not as scary as you might think. Steeks work best with 100% non-superwash animal fiber yarns. The same properties of the fiber that would make it felt if thrown in the washing machine, will also help keep your steek secure. HOWEVER, I recommend using a sewing machine to stitch before cutting. This stabilizes the stitches securely. If you’re substituting yarn, it’s not a bad idea to practice the steek on a swatch, to make sure the yarn will hold.
To indicate the steek position, you’ll work one p st at the beg and end of every round. These sts are accounted for in the st counts, but for simplicity, do not appear on any of the charts.
If you want to avoid steeking altogether, you can do it. Instead of joining and working in the round, work in rows, turning at the marker every time you reach it. You can leave the p sts at either end; you’ll be picking up and knitting on the collar, and these will turn to the underside of the work. It may help to mark up the pattern with the revised numbers so you don’t get confused.
Waist shaping is an integral part of the body directions. You’ll decrease and increase both to shape the waist and to obtain the right number of stitches for working the body charts.
- macbeth3n1's True Jackalopes
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- ikisti's True North in Gray and Mustard
- magliamomma's True
- spun-out's True North
- mrsgo4's 12 in 12 2012 March: True North
- Jazzy-J-Stitches' Wisconsin Warm
- darnknitanyway's DKA March Sweater 2012
- poodlegirl's March True North
- blustarr's Frozen Tundra Sweater
- mettiena's True North
- maschenprobant's The Cozy One
- amelie's The Dude[ette] Sweater
- northmoon's Fair Isle Yoke Cardigan
- paintedfleece's My North
- lababla's I can't help..a quicky warmy chunky thingy
- mdbatten's Chunky Fair-isle
- indigirl's Fair-isle chunky cardigan
To see more projects and information about True North, visit Ravelry.